The sixth-generation Bronco is the odd one out here, because Ford did much of the modifying for you. Tick the right box on the configurator and it arrives on 35-inch tires with lockers at both ends and gearing to match – a build most Wrangler owners spend years assembling. What it does not give you is a solid front axle: the Bronco runs independent front suspension, which makes it far better on fast dirt and on the highway, and far more expensive to lift a long way. That trade is most of what you need to know about modifying one.
What the platform gives you stock
Independent double-wishbone front suspension, a solid rear axle on coil springs and five links. That layout is why the Bronco is composed on washboard and stable at speed in a way a Wrangler is not, and why it is a poorer platform for cheap, tall lifts.
The package that changes everything is Sasquatch: 35-inch tires on beadlock-capable 17-inch wheels, front and rear electronic locking differentials, a 4.7 final drive ratio, wider flares and high-clearance suspension. It is available across most trims, so capability and trim level are separate decisions. The 4.7 gearing matters more than people expect – it is why a Sasquatch tolerates going up a tire size where another truck would need a regear.
Trim still buys things Sasquatch does not. Badlands adds the electronic front stabilizer bar disconnect, which is what makes the difference on slow, articulation-limited terrain. Wildtrak is tuned for speed, Everglades ships with a factory snorkel and a winch, and Raptor is a different vehicle – wider track, Fox internal bypass dampers, 37s from the factory. Ford also fits auxiliary upfitter switches on many builds, which removes the most annoying part of adding lighting or a compressor.
The first mods that make sense here
Because the hard parts are done, the useful Bronco mods are mostly protection and practicality rather than capability.
Start with rock sliders. The factory running boards are steps, not armor, and the rocker is exposed. Then skid plates: the front lower control arms and underbody hang lower than the wheel arches suggest, and factory coverage is partial. Second, sort out storage and interior protection – removable roof panels and doors are excellent until it rains on your gear.
Third, and only then, suspension. A 2-inch kit plus some trimming is the usual route to 37s on a Sasquatch, and that is where most non-Raptor builds stop. If you are not on Sasquatch, the same money is better spent on tires than on chasing height – lift kit vs leveling kit explains why that is not just a budget argument on an IFS vehicle. A winch is worth having if you wheel alone, but check what your bumper actually accepts.
Known gotchas
Weight. A four-door Bronco is heavy, and a loaded one is heavier than the equivalent Wrangler. Bigger tires on a heavy vehicle with factory brakes is a real consideration, and the strongest argument for staying at 35s unless you have a reason.
Early hardtop problems. Roof panel quality on the first model years generated a well-documented replacement program. Buying used, ask what the roof history is – not a modification problem, but a money problem.
IFS lift limits. Same physics as any independent front end: past roughly 2 to 3 inches you are into CV angles, alignment correction and diminishing returns. Height is the least useful thing you can buy here. Damping quality and tire choice do far more.
Early 2.7-liter engines. Ford addressed a valve-related issue on some early examples under an extended program. Confirm what was done to a used one rather than relying on the seller’s summary.
Watch out: Sasquatch gets you lockers, but not the Badlands front sway bar disconnect. If slow technical trails are the point, check the window sticker rather than assuming the big-tire package included it.
Lift height and tire size: a starting point
General guidance, not a fitment chart. What fits depends on trim, whether you have the Sasquatch flares and wheels, wheel offset, and how much trimming you accept. Confirm for your exact year and trim.
| Configuration | Typical tire | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Stock, non-Sasquatch | 31-32 in | Factory size on most base trims. |
| Non-Sasquatch, 1-2 in level | 33-34 in | Watch gearing – those ratios are shorter on tires. |
| Sasquatch, stock | 35 in | Fitted from the factory with 4.7 gears. |
| Sasquatch, 2 in lift | 37 in | Trimming likely; check rub at full lock. |
| Raptor, stock | 37 in | Wider track, factory-engineered clearance. |
Where to start
- First five mods for a new 4×4
- Best rock sliders
- Best LED light bars
- Mud-terrain vs all-terrain tires
- Does lifting a truck void your warranty
- Best portable air compressors
- Recovery gear
Is Sasquatch worth it, or should I buy the tires myself?
If you want 35s and lockers, Sasquatch is usually cheaper than adding them later and comes with matched gearing, flares and a warranty. A base truck with 35s fitted afterward leaves you with factory gearing that is short on tires and no lockers, which is the expensive part.
Can a Bronco do what a Wrangler does?
Most of it, and it does fast dirt considerably better. Where the Wrangler wins is extreme articulation and cheap, tall lifts – a solid front axle keeps both wheels planted in ways independent suspension cannot, and the Jeep aftermarket for very large tires is deeper.
Do I need to regear for 37s?
On a Sasquatch, often not immediately, because 4.7 gearing already accounts for the 35s. Going to 37s pushes it, and how tolerable that is depends on your engine, whether you tow and what altitude you drive at. Read do I need to regear after bigger tires first.