Best Lift Kits for the Ford Bronco (6G)
A Bronco lift kit is a control-arm and geometry decision before it's a height decision, because the platform's independent front suspension changes what each inch actually requires.
A bronco lift kit means something different than it does on a Wrangler, because the sixth-generation Bronco runs independent front suspension with coilover struts, not a solid front axle. That single difference decides which parts you actually need, how much height you can add before something starts binding, and where the money goes. This page sorts lift kits by height tier — spacer, small lift, full system, long-travel — because the tier determines the parts list, not the brand name stamped on the box.
Coming from a solid-axle rig, drop that mental model entirely. A Bronco deals with control-arm angles, CV joint clearance, and strut travel limits instead of leaf packs and track bar geometry. Lift a Bronco the way you’d lift a Wrangler and you’ll get bump steer, uneven camber wear, and a CV joint clicking inside its first year. This is written for the Ford Bronco platform specifically, covering both two-door and four-door, Sasquatch and non-Sasquatch trims.
What a Bronco lift kit actually needs, and why IFS changes the math
Every Bronco trim from base to Badlands shares the same basic front architecture: a strut-and-coilover assembly riding on a forged or cast aluminum upper and lower control arm. The Raptor gets its own wider, longer-travel version of the same idea with Fox Live Valve internal-bypass shocks. None of it is a beam axle, and that matters because raising an IFS vehicle doesn’t just add ground clearance — it also changes the operating angle of every control arm and CV axle in the system.
Go past roughly 2 to 2.5 inches of front lift on stock upper control arms and the geometry starts working against you: camber goes negative at ride height, the CV axle runs a steeper angle that shortens boot life, and travel gets eaten up before the wheel reaches full droop. That’s why serious Bronco lift kits above that height include new upper control arms as standard equipment, not an optional add-on. A Wrangler kit can get away with cheaper coil spacers alone for years; a Bronco kit can’t.
Leveling spacers vs full lift kits on Sasquatch and non-Sasquatch trims
Non-Sasquatch Broncos sit with a slight factory rake — a bit lower in front than the rear — because Ford tuned it that way for aerodynamics and to leave headroom in front travel. A 1.5 to 2-inch front strut spacer levels that rake without touching the rear, and it’s the correct first move for anyone running 33s or 34s who just wants the stance even. It’s inexpensive, doesn’t require new control arms, and doesn’t meaningfully change ride quality if the spacer is a quality forged piece rather than a stamped puck.
Sasquatch trims are a different case. They already run 35-inch tires, high-clearance suspension tuning, and 17-inch wheels from the factory, so a leveling spacer on a Sasquatch truck is correcting a much smaller rake — often under an inch — and mostly exists to clear slightly larger aftermarket wheels or a heavier front bumper. Stacking a spacer lift on top of Sasquatch to chase more clearance is where people start seeing strut top-out and clunking over whoops, because the factory shocks weren’t valved for the added static height. For a full breakdown of when a spacer is enough and when it isn’t, see our lift kit vs. leveling kit comparison.
Rear suspension: coil spacers vs replacement springs
The Bronco’s rear end is a coil-sprung solid axle on a multi-link setup, not the leaf-spring rear you’d find on older trucks. That gives you two honest options for rear lift: a coil spacer that sits on top of the factory spring, or a full replacement spring with a taller free length and a rate matched to your build weight. Spacers are the budget move and work fine up to about 2 inches. Beyond that, or if you’re carrying real weight — a full-size spare, a bumper swap, rock sliders, a rooftop tent — replacement coils are worth the extra cost because they hold ride height under load instead of sagging back toward stock within a few thousand miles.
Badlands trims add an electronic front sway bar disconnect as part of their HOSS 2.0 suspension tune, and that disconnect linkage has a finite range of motion. A lift beyond about 3 inches on a Badlands can put the disconnect end links at an angle where they bind or disengage unevenly; check the kit maker’s fitment notes for Badlands specifically rather than assuming a kit designed for base or Outer Banks trims bolts straight on.
Upper control arms, wheel offset, and why bolt pattern matters
Once you’re running new upper control arms, you’re also usually running wider or different-offset wheels to clear the arm and tie-rod at full steering lock. This is where a lot of otherwise-correct lift kits go wrong at the tire shop: the wheel bolts up fine but the backspacing rubs the new control arm on full lock, or a spacer pushes the tire out far enough to load the wheel bearing at an angle it wasn’t designed for. Confirm bolt pattern, offset range, and hub bore before ordering wheels — our Ford Bronco bolt pattern guide has the numbers by trim and wheel size so you’re not guessing at the counter.
The 35-to-37 tire threshold and what it actually requires
35-inch tires fit a Sasquatch Bronco with zero lift, because Ford built the fender clearance and gearing around that tire from the factory. That’s the single biggest reason to buy Sasquatch over a base trim if 35s are the goal — you skip an entire lift purchase. Non-Sasquatch trims need roughly 2.5 to 3 inches of lift plus new control arms to clear 35s without rubbing at full compression.
37-inch tires are the real threshold. They require a 3-inch-or-larger lift, new upper control arms front and rear geometry correction, and almost always some combination of fender trimming, a bumper with more tire clearance, or a mild body mount chop on the four-door. They also change the vehicle’s effective gearing enough that acceleration and highway RPM both suffer noticeably; most owners running 37s end up regearing the front and rear differentials to bring the drivetrain back to its factory-intended range. Our regearing after bigger tires guide walks through the math for figuring out whether your specific tire jump crosses that line.
Which lift tier to buy
The table below groups Bronco lift options by what they actually require, not by marketing name. Use it to figure out which tier matches your tire and budget target before you start comparing individual kits.
| Lift tier | Height added | Hardware required | Realistic max tire | Typical cost range |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Leveling spacer | 1–2 in. (front only) | Front strut spacer | 33–35 in. | $150–$400 |
| Small lift | 2–2.5 in. | Front spacer or shorter coilover, rear coil spacer, extended end links | 35 in. | $800–$1,800 |
| Full suspension system | 3–4 in. | Coilovers, upper control arms, rear coil springs, extended brake lines | 37 in. (with trimming) | $2,500–$5,500 |
| Long-travel system | 4+ in. with added travel | Long-travel control arms, remote-reservoir coilovers, wheel spacers, regear | 37–40 in. (with bodywork) | $6,000–$12,000+ |
If you’re on a Sasquatch trim and just want an even stance for a wheel or bumper swap, buy the spacer. It’s a one-afternoon install, it’s cheap, and it solves the actual problem instead of over-correcting it.
If you’re on a base, Big Bend, or Outer Banks trim and want to run 35s, buy the 2 to 3-inch system with new upper control arms — don’t try to save money by skipping the control arms, because the camber and CV angle problems show up as tire wear and clunking within a season, not immediately, which is exactly what makes it a bad shortcut.
If you’re building for 37s or bigger, budget for the full system plus regearing plus wheel and offset changes as one project, not three separate purchases spread over a year. Buying the lift first and discovering the gearing problem afterward is the most common expensive mistake on this platform.
If you’re on a Badlands or Raptor and happy with the factory HOSS or Fox Live Valve tune, think hard before lifting at all. Both of those suspensions are already tuned for their stock ride height and travel; a generic aftermarket kit can undo more capability than it adds unless it’s specifically built and valved for that trim.
Warranty and legality before you order anything
A lift kit does not automatically void your Bronco’s factory warranty — Ford, like every manufacturer, can only deny a specific claim if it can show the modification caused that specific failure, under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. In practice that still means a dealer can and sometimes will push back on drivetrain or suspension claims after a lift, so read our does lifting a truck void your warranty breakdown before you sign off on a big kit while the truck is still under factory coverage. Separately, most states cap total lift height or bumper-to-ground clearance for road-legal vehicles; check your state’s limit before ordering anything in the 4-inch-plus range.
Common questions
Does a 2-inch leveling kit hurt ride quality on a Bronco?
Not meaningfully, if it’s a quality strut spacer installed correctly. You’re adding preload and correcting rake, not changing spring rate or shock valving. Ride quality changes people notice at that height usually trace back to a cheap stamped spacer flexing under load, not the concept of a spacer lift itself.
Do I need new upper control arms for a small leveling kit?
Under about 2 to 2.5 inches of front lift, most Broncos stay within the stock control arm’s safe operating angle, so new arms aren’t required. Past that height, camber and CV joint angle move outside the range the factory arm geometry was designed for, and new arms stop being optional.
What’s the biggest tire I can run without any lift?
On Sasquatch trims, 35 inches fits with zero lift because Ford built the fender and gearing around that size. On non-Sasquatch trims, 33s generally clear with just a leveling spacer; anything larger needs real lift and control-arm work.
Do Badlands and Raptor need different lift kits than base Sasquatch trucks?
Yes. Badlands runs an electronic front sway bar disconnect with limited linkage travel, and Raptor runs a wider track with Fox Live Valve shocks tuned for its own geometry. A kit engineered for base or Outer Banks trims can bind the disconnect or waste the Raptor’s factory tuning, so confirm trim-specific fitment before ordering.
Will running 37s wreck my gas mileage and gearing?
Larger, heavier tires change your effective final drive ratio, which is felt as sluggish acceleration and higher engine RPM at highway speed before it shows up as a mileage number. Most 37-inch builds regear to compensate; check the specific ratio math for your tire jump before you decide whether it’s necessary for your driving.